Nothing mind blowing, just some hopefully helpful tips for first timers.
While tracking a start and then stall condition, I tried to test the HV coil with an insulation tester. I use them to test transformer insulation and mine can apply up to 1,000V to the probes. Fine for household stuff, but ignition coils can generate 40,000V or more. Still, worth a shot. I found lots of posts about odd running or stalling conditions that resolved with a new coil. Sometimes swapping in a known good part is the happy path to identifying a failure. I got some odd readings on my tester, which could be real - or could be user error. We should always see infinite ohms of resistance between the primary and secondary, but every here and there it would read 100-200 Megohms for a second or two. The thing with transformers (what your coil actually is) is that they can arc through their insulation and leave a little carbon trail for future electrons to follow. They can work until they hit a certain temperature, or other odd (and frustrating) failure modes are possible. If you are lucky they just go open.
This is the tester I use, not very expensive but the results of testing a very high voltage coil are suspect.
The ignition coil is located on the driver's side of the engine bay, just aft of the fuel filter. It's not terribly hard to remove but there are a couple of things to be aware of.
Here is the stock Bosch Ignition coil, nestled almost underneath the rear electrical panel cover.
Remove these two wing-nuts and then lift the panel gently. That electrical cable feeds up into a slot in it.
The snap that opens up the cover on the coil is visible here - just gently press a screwdriver in between the 2 sides and it will pop right open. You can press it back together easily with your fingers when you are done.
Underneath it's all pretty standard - a + and minus lead to power it and a big lead to bring the HV to the distributor cap.
Loosen the rearward bolt (13mm nut) and remove it so you can angle the bracket out a bit and reach the screw for the clamp, then loosen that. You don't need to remove the clamp bolt. Here are the stock connectors for terminals 1 & 15. Unhelpfully, they are not the same size, nor will either fit on the new coil. Also unhelpfully, in my little world of DC electronics, black wires are ground. Here the black lead is +. So I took pictures so I would not mix them up. Polarity is important here.
Ok, loosened the bracket, loosened the clamp screw and the coil is out. Easy part (breaking the car) is done.
Here is the new coil as it arrived. That extra collar comes right off. The new coil does not come with the nuts or washers to connect it to the electrical system so you get to figure that out yourself. I took the coil to the local real hardware store and found the fasteners are 5MM .8 pitch nut and 5MM washers. 13 cents each for the nuts.
Here is the new coil, wired up and in place. Put the cover back on, taking care to route the wires properly and then put the cover back on the rear electrical panel.
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